Autumn, the season of festivals, arrives adorned with the
beautiful crown of Durga Puja. It is not merely a festival but a time for reunions with family and friends and a reconnection with our cultural heritage.
While Durga Puja in Kolkata has evolved into a grand carnival, the Bonedi Barir
Durga Puja retains its unique glory.
These century-old zamindar families continue to uphold their
traditions, celebrated through the delightful flavors of homemade sweets like Naru
and Goja, cherished customs, and exquisite handmade gold jewelry. The
towering pillars, known as thakurdalan (prayer hall), create a serene
atmosphere, preserving the ‘Shabeki’ mood throughout the five days of the Durga
Puja festival.
Begin your Kolkata Puja Parikrama from the Banks of
the Ganga. North Kolkata is the heart of these historic Bonedi Barir Pujas,
with its grandiose zamindar mansions. Let’s explore some of the most iconic
ones:
Sova Bajar Rajbari
Sovabajar Rajbari is one of the oldest Durga Pujas in North
Kolkata. It’s best to visit early, as long queues can form. Additionally, you
can purchase tickets for the ‘bhog’ prepared by
traditional sweet-makers, known as Viyan.
Loaction: 33 &36 Raja Naba Krishna Street, Sovabajar.
Kolkata- 700005 Opposite Jaypuria College, Near Sovabajar Sutanuti Metro
Station.
History: The Durga Puja at Sovabajar Rajbari dates
back to 1757, when it was inaugurated by Raja Naba Krishna Dev. Over the years,
its guest list has included notable figures such as Lord Clive and Warren
Hastings, solidifying its status as one of the most prestigious Pujas in
Kolkata. According to legend, Maa Durga comes to enjoy the music in the Nachghar
(dance room) during this time.
Specialty: On ‘Bijaya Dashami’, a Nilkantha bird was
traditionally released. Due to the Wildlife Preservation Act, a clay model of
the bird is now immersed with the Durga idol.
Rani Rashmoni’s Durga Puja
Add Rani Rashmoni house to your Kolkata Puja Parikrama
list must. It is celebrated in Janbajar now.
Location: 13 Rani Rashmoni Road. Kolkata- 7000013
History: Rani Rashmoni, the queen of Janbajar, is
renowned as the founder of the Dakshineswar Kali Temple. Her father-in-law,
Babu Pitaram Marh (Das), initiated the Durga Puja in their household before
Rani's marriage in 1974. Today, the Hazra family continues this traditional
celebration.
Specialty: The ‘Aatchala’ idol and traditional
‘Daaker Saaj’ decorations touch the heart, preserving the aura of old-world
charm.
Laha Bari
Laha Bari has been celebrating the Durga Puja festival at
their residence for nearly two centuries. Today, the puja encompasses various
branches of the family across different locations.
Location: 2A, Bidhan Sarani. Kolkata: 700004 or 121,
Muktaram Babu Street. Kolkata: 700007 or 50A, Kailash Bose Street. Kolkata-
7000014 or 1, Bechu Chaterjee Street. Kolkata- 700009
History: Two centuries ago, the late Bhagabati Charan
Laha initiated the puja. Maa Durga is worshipped in the Hara Gouri form, where
Gouri is seated on the lap of Lord Shiva with his eyes closed. Throughout the
puja days, the Astadhatu Jai Jai Ma is also worshipped at the Thakur Dalan.
Specialty: Instead of traditional ‘anna bhog’, Maa Durga
offers an array of 20 types of homemade sweets, including ‘tiler naru’, ‘narkel
naru’, ‘paan goja’, ‘pantua’ and many
more.
Thanthania Dutta Bari
Dwarika Bhawan has been worshipping Maa Durga as the
daughter of the house for nearly 170 years. Following the Baishnav tradition,
the family joyfully welcomes and reveres Maa Durga during the festival.
Location: 3 Bidhan Sarani.Kolkata- 700006 Near
College Street. Opposite Thanthania Kali Bari.
History: Dwarikanath Dutta started this Puja in
1855 after a dream of Shiva and Durga in the Hara-Gouri form.
Specialty: The women of the family actively engage in
unique rituals such as ‘Dhuno Porano’ and ‘Kumari Sadhaba Puja’. These
traditions are rich and deeply rooted in Vaishnav beliefs, reflecting the
family's devotion. The tradition of wearing heirloom ornaments, including the
'noth' (nose ring) and 'mal' (anklet), from Prathama (first day) to Dasami
(tenth day) during Durga Puja holds deep cultural significance. Plan to visit
Dwarika Bhawan during Durga Puja 2024 to immerse yourself in the beauty
of this cherished Bengali culture.
Maniktala Saha Bari
The Maniktala Saha Family boasts a rich heritage that dates
back over a century and a half, rooted in the legacy of their ancestors who
migrated from Allahabad. Saha Family started Durga Puja a century ago.
Location: 122A, Maniktala Steet. Kolkata: 700006
History: Originally engaged as prominent salt merchants, the Saha family played a crucial role in the salt trade, which was a significant industry in colonial India. Their success in this trade not only brought them wealth but also led to their acquisition of vast zamindari (landholding) across the city of Kolkata. One of the most remarkable aspects of the Saha Family's legacy is their Durga Puja, which has been celebrated for around 150 years.
Specialty: The family’s ancestral residence is a large,
white-colored mansion located at the bustling junction of Vivekananda Road and
Maniktala Street. This historic house stands as a testament to the family’s
prominence. One of the defining features of the mansion is the spacious
Thakurdalan inside. This traditional architectural element, often seen in old
Bengali zamindar homes, is a pillared courtyard or open space designed
specifically for hosting religious rituals, particularly Durga Puja.
Darjipara Mitra Bari
The Darjipara Mitra Family’s Durga Puja is one of the most
renowned celebrations in North Kolkata, much like the Sovabajar Rajbari. In the
past, two Nilkantha birds were released during the immersion of the deity on
Dashami. However, this ritual has been discontinued due to the Wildlife
Preservation Act.
Location: 19, NIlmani Mitra Street. Kolkata: 700006
History: Durgacharan Mitra, a prominent figure in the
Mitra family, served as the court jeweler for Nawab Siraj-ud-Daulah. He
initiated the family’s Durga Puja in 1809. Following in his footsteps, his
nephew Nilmoni Mitra upheld the family’s legacy. Eventually, his grandson
Radhakrishna Mitra revived the Durga Puja with great enthusiasm and splendor in
their home.
Specialty: The family worships goddess Durga with 108
Aparajita flowers instead of lotus. Idols’ faces are different, including the
lion also. The Chala is named ‘Muttchouri’. The top three different Chala represent
the Mahashakti of the Shakta faith. On the last day of puja women’s meal comprised
of ‘sukto’, ‘shaak’, ‘mach’ and ‘achar’
as a part of ‘bhog’.
Jorasanko Daw Bari
It is believed that Maa Durga visited different Bonedi Baris
in Kolkata during her stay. She comes to the Abhay Charan Mitra house at
Kumartuli for a meal, adorns herself with jewelry from the Jorasanko Daw Bari,
and enjoys the musical evenings at the Shovabajar Rajbari.
Location: 12A, Shiba Krishna Dawn Lane. Kolkata:
700007
History: In 1840, Gokul Chandra Dawn initiated the
Durga Puja at Jorasanko Daw Bari. After his time, his adopted son, Shib Krishna
Dawn, carried forward the tradition, and now the descendants of the Dawn family
continue to celebrate the puja with grandeur. This legacy has made the
Jorasanko Daw Bari Puja one of the most iconic in Kolkata.
Specialty: At Jorasanko Daw Bari, Maa Durga is
adorned with stunning gold ornaments, and the chalchitra (backdrop) is
crafted exclusively from gold. The family deities are dressed in intricate
diamond and emerald jewelry, most of which was imported from Europe. With its
magnificent thakurdalan (prayer hall) and hanging balconies, the house
stands as a piece of living history. The younger generation and Durga Puja
enthusiasts are encouraged to include this house in their Kolkata Puja
Parikrama for its rich heritage and splendor. Although now the house is
often used for film shootings, it remains a major attraction during the festive
season.
Kabiraj Family Durga Puja
The Kabiraj family Durga Puja is closely linked to Ganga
Prasad Sen, a renowned disciple of Sri Ramakrishna Deb and also his personal
physician.
Location: 17
Kumartuli Street, Kolkata-700005, near Kumartuli Ghat
History: Ganga
Prasad Sen, following in the footsteps of his father, Nilambar Sen—a famous
physician from Dhaka (now in Bangladesh)—achieved great success in the field of
medicine. He eventually settled by the banks of the Ganga River, where he
established the Kabiraj Bari. In 1840, he initiated the Durga Puja, and the
tradition has been carried forward by his descendants ever since.
Specialty: The unique aspect of this Durga Puja is
the positioning of Ganesh and Kartika—Ganesh is placed on the left side of
Goddess Durga, while Kartika is on the right, which is uncommon in most
traditional depictions. Although the family once practiced animal sacrifice,
this custom has since been discontinued.
Chhatu Babu Latu Babu’s Durga Puja
Ramdulal Niwas, the iconic red-colored house on Beadon
Street, is home to one of Kolkata’s oldest and most famous Bonedi Puja
celebrations.
Location: Ramdulal Niwas 67E, Beadon Street, Kolkata-
700006
History: The Puja is named after Ramdulal Sarkar’s
two sons, Asutosh (Chhatu) and Pramatha (Latu), giving rise to the names Chhatu
Babu and Latu Babu. Ramdulal Sarkar, a wealthy and humble
businessman, initiated the Durga Puja in 1770, and the family has preserved
this rich tradition for centuries.
Specialty: Maa Durga arrives at Ramdulal Niwas
accompanied by her two attendants, Jaya and Bijaya, both seated on lotus
flowers. The goddess is adorned with elegant heirloom ornaments, including the
exquisite "Naulakha Necklace." As part of the bhog offering,
simple luchi is served along with three types of vegetables, all
prepared in ghee without salt.
South Kolkata, too, upholds its rich tradition and
heritage through the observance of Durga Puja at various Bonedi houses,
continuing rituals that have been passed down for generations. Durga Puja
2024 would be incomplete without visiting these iconic pujas, where the
essence of tradition remains alive and vibrant.
Sabarna Roy Chowdhury Aatchala Durga
The Roy Chowdhury family once owned the three villages of
Sutanuti, Gobindopur, and Kalikata, which were later acquired by the East India
Company. These villages eventually merged to form the city of Calcutta, now
known as Kolkata. The family claims to host the oldest Durga Puja in Kolkata,
with a legacy deeply intertwined with the city's history.
Location: 26, Sabarna Para Road. Kolkata: 700008.
Near Tollygunge Metro Station.
History: Laxmikanta
Majumder initiated the ‘Aatchala’ Durga Puja in 1610. Later, the Majumder
family was honored with the title of Roy Chowdhury by the Mughal court. This
centuries-old tradition has continued for nearly 400 years, and today, eight
branches of the family celebrate the puja individually, preserving the customs
passed down through generations.
Specialty: Be sure to visit the house during the four
days of the puja celebration to witness the magnificent Aatchala Durga Pratima.
Notably, the days of Navami and Dashami are filled with various cultural
programs that showcase the vibrant traditions associated with this auspicious
occasion.
Jagat Ram Mukherjee Family Puja
The Mukherjee house, nestled in a narrow lane along Diamond Harbor
Road, may appear ordinary, but it is renowned for its ‘Sonar Durga’.
Each brick of this house tells a story, making it a living testament to history
and tradition.
Location: 56, Bramha Samaj Road. Behala. Kolkata:
700034
History: Originally from Jessore (now in Bangladesh),
Jagat Ram Mukherjee, the organizer of this Durga Puja, first moved to
Barrackpore before finally settling in Behala. In 1769, he began the Durga Puja
with a pledge to his daughter in the form of a ‘ghot puja’. The
following year, he initiated the worship of a clay model of Maa Durga. His
grandson, Jadunath Mukherjee, later introduced the Golden Durga in 1869,
marking a significant evolution in the family’s puja tradition.
Specialty: The ‘chalchitra’ is crafted from an eight-metal alloy, featuring the deities Lakshmi, Saraswati, Ganesh, and Kartik seated within it.
5 Essential Tips for Visiting Bonedi Barir Puja in Kolkata
- Use
Google Maps for directions to the specified addresses, and don’t hesitate
to ask locals for assistance if needed.
- Plan
your visit for a suitable time, as each Bonedi house adheres to strict
puja schedules.
- The
Bonedi houses warmly welcome visitors, bloggers, and photographers, so be
respectful and cooperative during your visit.
- Dress
in ethnic attire, as this is a family-oriented occasion.
- Remember
to remove your shoes and socks before stepping onto the ‘Thakurdalan’
(Prayer Hall).
Bottom Line
The Durga Puja festival holds a unique emotional
significance in Kolkata. As the most important festival for Bengalis, it has
been recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO,
marking a prestigious moment for both the Bengali community and the city of
Kolkata. So don’t miss it!
Disclaimer
This is not an exhaustive list of Bonedi Barir Pujas, as
numerous celebrations take place in the old alleys of Kolkata. If you are aware
of any such pujas, please let me know, and I will gladly include them here with
gratitude. This blog has been crafted using information from various sources,
so if you spot any factual errors, please inform me, and I will be sure to
rectify them.
Pic Courtesy: Google, @SarbajeeDutta
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